Even if you look at my little icon photo, that wave was well up above my head the GoPro makes it look smaller but I was fine on the Speeed. I'd call it as "just head high" - but I'm 6'3" too, not from a surfing background and wary of overstating the size of waves as it seems to be a surfer thing to understate the size of waves After a lifetime of hearing surf talk around the world, I basically use these loose terms, when forced to talk size.
Here is a quick picture reference of what I have usually heard by experienced surfers. It seems like the Insane might be pulled out for the "solid Over-Head" waves pictured below Select to expand quote cantSUPenough said..
I reckon for the Insane you need proper fast double overhead to really light up that board. Most performance surf sups will easily ride head high waves and good ones will rip. Changing fins to suit bigger waves will give boards more range before investing in a big wave gun. I have the Sunova 8'10 Acid and that thing will handle double overhead no worries. But I rarely get ride waves that big. When I call swell size I give a range say "waist to head high sets".
Calling a wave head high is subjective enough but was it the only head high wave of the session or is it pumping head high the whole time? A big difference in the conditions! A mate of mine always over calls the swell size so we factor that in on his surf reports. Then there is the power in the swell. Some waves are soft some are angry. This felt way way bigger than it looks in a photo.
Select to expand quote Stev0 said.. Select to expand quote hilly said.. That wave has intent! The board looks smaller than 9'6 on that wave. For me on the peninsula vicco that is one of the big differences between surfing big left and zappers - zappers can get some size and can knock you around on the big days rare , but big left enjoys knocking you around.
I reckon the Insane could be good out there. Thanks for sharing. A few days ago, a historic swell battered the reefs of Teahupoo, resulting in some of the biggest waves ever surfed in Tahiti.
The surfing world lost a great earlier this week with the passing of Greg Noll, a pioneer of big-wave surfing in Hawaii. Noll was Known as Da Bull, throughout his lifetime, he attained legendary status as a leader of the big-wave scene on the North Shore, being among the first to ride in legendary spots like Waimea and Pipeline and setting early records for largest wave ever surfed. He was a regular in surf flicks like Endless Summer and other documentaries and appeared as a surfing stunt.
Carissa Moore makes history as the first female gold medalist for the shortboard surfing event at the Tokyo Olympics. Tokyo was not messing around when they added skateboarding, sport climbing, and surfing to the Olympics this year, opening new doors for the action sports community.
The surfing competitions wrapped up today with the first ever gold medals given to the winners of the male and female shortboard events. Among the two recipients was. Last Step! Please enter your public display name and a secure password. Teton Gravity. Home Surf story. Which is probably exactly what they they were shooting for… The Face Scale Most of the world works on the face scale — the height of the face of the wave from peak to trough. Not worth getting out of bed for 2.
May as well go get wet — that counts as a shower, right? There's also another theory that says that Hawaiians believe that a wave should be measured from its back, which almost always results in having smaller measurements in height. Last but not least, the conspiracy speculation - Hawaiian surfers and lifeguards say their waves are 50 percent smaller than they actually are to make their local surf breaks less attractive to haoles.
According to surf legend Larry Goddard, the Hawaiian scale, also known as the "Local Scale," was originally was reported in "half meters" by observers working at the Kilauea Lighthouse on the north shore of Kauai. They reported by teletype, sending their estimated wave heights, periods, and swell directions to the old US Weather Bureau Forecast Office in Honolulu.
That's very close to about inch units for each half meter," Goddard told SurferToday. Then, three half meters is about 60 inches or about head high. It looks like a five-foot wave, from the surfboard up to the lip of the wave. If it were, the surfboard would not still be sliding downhill, down the face of the wave, right? It's a six-foot wave if you include the unrideable trough. Note that the true height in feet is about twice the Hawaiian scale, reported in half meters!
Goddard says that the observers at Kilauea Lighthouse were estimating the wave heights. That is, they reported how big the waves looked to them. It was pretty wide-ranging in magnitude, but I could tailor my forecast to fit their own personal bias in wave height estimation. For that, you need to determine the actual height of a breaking wave.
In the s, Larry Goddard actually used a foot long bamboo pole with black tape spaced every 12 inches and white tape every five feet to measure his waves. Is the Hawaiian wave height scale more or less scientifically accurate than the most used measurement standard adopted by surf forecasters? We may never know, so it's up to you to decide which one suits you. How to improve your duck dive technique in 4 simple steps. What is and how to treat a neoprene wetsuit allergy.
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